The Big Ride Part 3 - Iran, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan 2011

The Big Ride Part Two (Pakistan & Iran)

The Big Ride Part One (India & Nepal)

Interview with Prince Mahir Ullah, Pakistani journalist and humanitarian worker

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Saturday, March 12, 2011

Our long journey to Quetta… (Part One)

I can’t believe it… (sigh)… we have finally arrived in Quetta.  Since our arrival a few days ago we have been indulging in modern luxuries such as hot shower, cable tv and other amenities with great appreciation and gratitude.  Since departing Islamabad, our days seem to be a continuous struggle, both long and exhausting.  Nevertheless, everyday greets us with the bizarre and unexpected, never to be forgotten.
 
The significant hospitality of the Islamic people is overwhelming.  During the past week we have been accommodated by locals, offered meals and given gifts.  Making our way down south we arrived in Bahalwalpur to rest for the night only to discover that every hotel in the entire town was at full occupancy due to a local festival.  As darkness shadowed I began to fret as Aj suggested we find shelter in a residential building site.  Some local boys at a wedding celebration took notice of our vehicle and started making conversation, we stressed our concerns and without hesitation they lead the way to some additional hotels that were also fully booked.  After much discussion in a language we couldn’t understand they insisted we spend the night with their friend’s family.   Initially hesitant but knowing we had no choice we accepted the offer.  A night was spent in their family home with approximately 15 members and staff.  The girls giggled as they showed me school photos, asked me questions about western fashion, played with my hair and offered me gifts.   After a good feed, a decent nights rest and finding space for my new bag full of bangles, we said goodbye to our newly found family, laughing as they all waved as we drove out the gates.  Hilarious. 
The very next day, we found ourselves lost as we attempted to find Derawa fort in the Cholistan Desert.   As aggravation once again began to fester, a local on a 70cc motorbike veered in our direction asking our destination while riding beside us.  We bellowed the location and after an enthusiastic signal in another direction we found ourselves sitting back as he lead the way.  Our afternoon was fun filled as we explored, rode camels and enjoyed chai all at our new found friend’s expense, of course we insisted otherwise but were adamantly refused.  Our day was completed with a feast at his rudimentary home with wife and five children, none of who spoke English.  We said our goodbyes and made our way to a nearby rest house that he once again insisted on paying for but to his despair was denied, and we would have slept moderately well if it hadn’t been for some very persistent and annoying mosquitoes. With an early start we were back on the road once again feeling astounded by this incredible Pakistani hospitality, such amazing generosity from people who are living in something the size of matchbox, with no hot running water, no normal kitchen facilities, no flushing toilet, walls that need painting from years of built filth and a mattress so hard that it also doubles as a dining table. 
 

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