Big Ride in central Iran

Dear readers of Becky and AJ's amazing journey!  I am Becky's mum Bianca, writing this post on her behalf as she is unable to do so.  They are now well into the centre of Iran!  Luckily we have been in touch by remote emails when and where she could connect BUT certain laws in Iran prevent them from accessing websites!  Quite interesting!  How different our lives can be from country to country!  In that part of the middle east the people do not enjoy the freedom of the "world wide web" that we so take for granted.

As her loving and protective mother I am happy to report that they are both safe and experiencing parts of the world that most of us can only dream of.   Sometimes a harsh and tough environment but they are determined to complete their goal.  I am so proud of their guts and motivation!  I will now enclose some of their very recent travels from an email Becky wrote me this morning!

"We have been riding mostly through desert, heading towards central Iran, currently staying in a place named Yazd, a very romantic desert town full of back streets, hidden bazaars and tasty delights.  Next stop will be the ancient city of Persepolis and Shiraz.  Interesting overnight stops so far have included a night in the desert out at the Kaluts, recorded as the hottest place in the world during summer followed by a night sleeping in a cave!  After riding through a sand wind storm, just terrible, we finally arrived in a village where the entire town lives in man made caves over 2000 years old.  We really felt like we were in the Flinstones... I kid you not!!  It was awesome!
The people are amazing and it is great to finally have a break from the constant police escorts experienced in Pakistan.  Persia is a magical place where gold is bountiful, the tea tasty and greetings extremely warm and friendly."

For everyone that knows my Bec, the thought of her sleeping in a DESERT and a CAVE in IRAN is just mind boggling!  How brave are they!
Becky will continue to update their Big Ride blog as soon as she is able and thanks everyone for their support and donations!  In the meantime I will keep you updated until she can!

Written by Bianca Urwin 29th March 2011

Our long journey to Quetta… (Part One)

I can’t believe it… (sigh)… we have finally arrived in Quetta.  Since our arrival a few days ago we have been indulging in modern luxuries such as hot shower, cable tv and other amenities with great appreciation and gratitude.  Since departing Islamabad, our days seem to be a continuous struggle, both long and exhausting.  Nevertheless, everyday greets us with the bizarre and unexpected, never to be forgotten.
 

The significant hospitality of the Islamic people is overwhelming.  During the past week we have been accommodated by locals, offered meals and given gifts.  Making our way down south we arrived in Bahalwalpur to rest for the night only to discover that every hotel in the entire town was at full occupancy due to a local festival.  As darkness shadowed I began to fret as Aj suggested we find shelter in a residential building site.  Some local boys at a wedding celebration took notice of our vehicle and started making conversation, we stressed our concerns and without hesitation they lead the way to some additional hotels that were also fully booked.  After much discussion in a language we couldn’t understand they insisted we spend the night with their friend’s family.   Initially hesitant but knowing we had no choice we accepted the offer.  A night was spent in their family home with approximately 15 members and staff.  The girls giggled as they showed me school photos, asked me questions about western fashion, played with my hair and offered me gifts.   After a good feed, a decent nights rest and finding space for my new bag full of bangles, we said goodbye to our newly found family, laughing as they all waved as we drove out the gates.  Hilarious. 

The very next day, we found ourselves lost as we attempted to find Derawa fort in the Cholistan Desert.   As aggravation once again began to fester, a local on a 70cc motorbike veered in our direction asking our destination while riding beside us.  We bellowed the location and after an enthusiastic signal in another direction we found ourselves sitting back as he lead the way.  Our afternoon was fun filled as we explored, rode camels and enjoyed chai all at our new found friend’s expense, of course we insisted otherwise but were adamantly refused.  Our day was completed with a feast at his rudimentary home with wife and five children, none of who spoke English.  We said our goodbyes and made our way to a nearby rest house that he once again insisted on paying for but to his despair was denied, and we would have slept moderately well if it hadn’t been for some very persistent and annoying mosquitoes. With an early start we were back on the road once again feeling astounded by this incredible Pakistani hospitality, such amazing generosity from people who are living in something the size of matchbox, with no hot running water, no normal kitchen facilities, no flushing toilet, walls that need painting from years of built filth and a mattress so hard that it also doubles as a dining table. 

 

Pakistan. A great holiday destination?

I would like to share with you an article written by Kauser Hassian a chief reporter for "World Problems" magazine and freelance writer.  For ten years he has worked with foreign correspondents allowing them access to restricted areas in Afghanistan and Pakistan. He also works with Prince mahir Ullah Khan as part of the "World Welfare Organisation", a Peshawar based NGO.  

The truth is that Pakistan really is a great holiday destination. Be prepared for a warm-hearted welcome and expect the unexpected.  Pakistan is truly a place for adventurous travel. Although these days you will predominantly see Pakistan in the headlines because of security concerns it remains a favourite holiday spending spot to many discerning, intrepid travellers. Every year a large number of young travellers, mainly students and backpackers make their way to Pakistan because Pakistan fits the needs of adventurous souls. It has everything an adventurous traveller seeks... exotic markets, historic palaces, spectacular scenery and friendly people ready and willing to share their lives and culture. Pakistan encapsulates a great variety of attractions. From hidden bazaars in the narrow streets of Peshawar to the impressive Mughal architecture of Lahore that rivals the more well known Mughal monuments of India. The Northern areas of Pakistan, now called as Gilgit-Baltistan, are a favourite of foreign tourists, full of beautiful mountains, snowy peaks, lush green pastures and some of the longest ranges of glaciers in the world. This area is also a home to three great mountain ranges, (Karakoram, Hindu Kush and Himalaya), the great K2 mountain and the long Karakoram highway built by China and Pakistan in friendship.

Pakistan is such a diverse region, it was a crossroads of various religions and settlements long before the creation of the nation that exists today. Deep in the Hindu Kush mountains of North West Pakistan lies the remote and picturesque district of Chitral and the colourful Kalash valleys - home of Terich Mir, the 14th-highest peak in the world (25,550 ft), and of the legendary pagan tribe Kalash. The Kalash people live in three isolated valleys in the remote mountains of Hindu Kush range. The culture of Kalash people is unique and completely differs from other ethnic groups surrounding them. They are polytheists worshipping their ancestral gods and hold colourful religious festivals of music and dance where they drink wine and sacrifice animals. Their women wear black gowns, and headgear decked out with cowrie shells, buttons and crowned with large coloured feathers. The men wear Shalwar Kameez, the traditional Pakistani dress. Their origins are lost in the mists of time but are said to descend from the soldiers of Alexander the Great, stranded and established in foreign lands.

Don't let your imagination run wild and start thinking that coming to Pakistan will mean that you are stepping into a scene from James Bond or Die Hard. Bad things can happen to anyone anywhere in the world. There may be a higher risk than walking down the street in a Western city but just the other day I encountered an Australian traveller Mr Paul Roberts from Sydney, Australia wandering in the old city of Peshawar by himself and he didn't look terrified. He had been here for more than a week and he was enjoying himself - meeting locals and learning about the culture (green tea!!) I talked to him and to find out how he feels in Pakistan. This is Paul's Pakistan experience.

"Any local will tell you that the period since 9/11/01 has seen a dramatic drop in the number of tourists to Pakistan. This is a shame because the people of Pakistan are overwhelmingly some of the most welcoming and friendly people you will find anywhere on the planet. Despite battling decades of entrenched corruption and in more recent times the advent of militancy within its borders, the greatest asset of the country is undoubtedly its people. In particular Peshawar is a diamond in the rough. Located less than an hours drive from the passage to Afghanistan, the Khyber Pass. I found the inhabitants of the city most hospitable group of people I have experienced in any country in the world. As a relatively seasoned traveller I would strongly recommend any intrepid journeyman with an interest in cultural exchange visit Peshawar, the chances of getting caught up in a blast in the short time you are in Islamabad or Peshawar is very, very slim. You are much more likely to be hurt due to some of Pakistan’s erratic driving techniques. Peshawar is a beautiful city and welcoming to guests! Come and experience the amazing hospitality of the Pashtoon culture. I doubt you could walk around the city all day and not be invited for at least one cup of tea!"

Too cold...!

We have finally returned to Islamabad after a very hard few days on the bike venturing through the Swat Valley and down the Karakoram Highway.  I have no doubt that if it were a warmer season that my experience would have been more of a positive one, however due to my lack of enthusiasm for cold weather especially whilst a passenger on a motorbike,  I found it intolerable.  Hours were spent in a frozen, fearful lock as we slid through mud and slime thick roads that had previously been wiped out by the floods.  I can only imagine the incomprehensible force as a massive sheet of water made its way through the valley cleaning out everything in it's path.  I was pleased to see UNHCR emergency tents set up along the banks of the river where aid had been supplied to those who had barley anything left.

A night was spent in hell as we slept without power, hot water or heat in the world's worst hotel to finally hit the road again in a wind storm.  Due to the tight security of the region we were required to ride with a police escort for over 200km at only 40km hour... grrr.... this was a very long day, till we finally reached Islamabad.  A perfect night at the Marriott Hotel was much appreciated as we sat and feasted drinking ourselves silly, the hotel being one of the only drinking holes in the entire country we didn't hold back.

Please see my recent interview with Prince Mahir Ullah, Pakistani journalist and humanitarian worker, as we visit a Afghan Refugee Village now uploaded on this site.